Showing posts with label diorama. Show all posts
Showing posts with label diorama. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 2, 2017

Japanese Billy dollhouse- Naniwa's Skewer (Kushi katsu) Shop

This is my first official Billy Dollhouse. The Billy Dollhouse Company in Japan makes ready-to-assemble dollhouses. The small kits sell for 3000 yen ($27.00 USD), and the larger kits retail for 5300 yen ($48.00 USD). They have a website and they sell online, but they do not sell directly to countries outside of Japan. Customers in the US can buy them from Amazon.Com, for about $10 above retail, which isn't too large a markup.

They're are very similar to the made-in-China DIY kits that I'd bought before. But in Japan, everything is more expensive, but generally, you get higher quality for the higher price. This kit cost me 5,300 yen ($48.00), which is about twice the cost of similar Chinese kits. It is called "ナニワの串カツ屋さん", which Google Translate says is "Naniwa's skewer/kushi katsu/kushi age shop". I had seen samples of the finished kits at Volks Akihabara, so I knew they are slightly smaller than 1:18, perhaps more like 1:20 or 1:24 scale.

Parts inventory after opening the kit
One thing that I wasn't very enthusiastic about was Billy's use of foamboard and cardboard sheets to make a few parts. You're supposed to cut out the parts yourself, using the full-sized templates in the instructions. Personally, I just don't like foam board because of painting issues and gluing issues. I refused to build furniture with cardboard, so I did part substitutions for this build.

The instructions are completely in Japanese, with zero English. Since I'd done these kinds of dollhouses before, I made educated guesses about how to assemble it by looking at the diagrams, as well as watching YouTube videos by the user HMS2.

Since this dollhouse shop is sub-1:18 scale, my plan was to modify it to bring it into proper 1:18 by using 1/4" x 3/4" x 8" basswood strips to boost the height of the walls. The back panel of the shop needed to be replaced, so I used a thin MDF backer board from a Daiso picture frame.


Day 7: 

Here's an in-progress shot of the Billy DIY dollhouse project. This photo shows how to increase the height of a wooden dollhouse in order to bring it in-scale with larger figures, in this case going from 1:20/1:24 scale to 1:18.

Day 7 of dollhouse construction
Clockwise from the top:
  1. Main building: The 3/4" basswood strips can be seen on the outside. On the inside, the booster strips had already been covered-up with a wide baseboard, which is a textured paper strip. The outside will eventually be covered up with siding.
  2. Doors: Since the building height is being increased, the doors also need to be taller. There's a 1/2" basswood strip on the bottom of the door. Once the door is painted, the booster will not be visible.
  3. "L" shaped counter: The instructions called for cutting the countertop from foamboard and the cabinet from cardboard. I completely replaced all of it with a hand-cut basswood countertop and very thin leftover MDF from a picture frame backing board.
  4. Small outdoor counter: Also has a 1/2" basswood strip to boost the height. The outside is covered with a strip of bamboo mat, replacing the flattened corrugated cardboard strip mentioned in the instructions.
  5. The original stools actually fit Rement Pose skeletons pretty well. I decided to designate them as "kid's stools". Then I made 4 slightly larger ones from scratch (same style) for the "grownups". I found some excellent "textured cloth" origami paper at Daiso, so I used that to replace the original paper chair covering.
  6. The yatai (street food stall) cabinet also needed a height boost to make it proportional to the new height of the building and furniture. I added a 1/2" basswood strip, and replaced the intended cardboard counter with thin MDF. All of the changes will be invisible once the cabinet is painted.
The Billy dollhouse kit includes 3 small bottles of paint. After trying them out, I'll say that the paint is definitely unlike the craft acrylic paints that we have in the US. The Billy paints are water based, but they are semi-transparent, semi-gloss, really quick-drying and have a lot more "stick" to them. They adhere to the surfaces very well- almost too well, because it was difficult to wash the dried paint off of my hands! I had to use a pot scrubbing sponge.


Day 15: 

Well, the Billy dollhouse is still a work-in-progress. I've completed the building, interior furniture and the yatai (street food) cart, as well as the small outdoor counter. Everything's painted and nicely covering up all of the height booster strips.

Day 15 of dollhouse construction
Yup, bringing the scale to 1:18 was a good idea. Here's what it looks like with figures: Boss Fight Studio skeleton, Pose skeleton, and manning the yatai- a "125mm full-action Kamen Rider SAGA Kuuga" gachapon figure, fresh from Japan. The samurai armor suit is another gachapon capsule toy.

But there's NO FOOD! I'll be working on that over the next few days. I know, a restaurant looks kind of pitiful with hungry customers and no food.


Day 21: 

We have food now! and BEER! The food is made in the most unexpected way: cutting tiny pieces out of foam board and putting a thin wire through them. Then painting them with the included high-tack orange paint. Then coating them with glue and rolling them around in sand. And a final coat of orange paint. They really do look good enough to eat.

Day 21 of dollhouse construction
I'm approaching the completion of the dollhouse kit. Right now, the awning is only taped-on because I'm waiting for some LED lights from China. Eventually I'll have light-up lanterns under the awning.

Additional part substitutions:
  1. The flags and curtains were originally printed paper. I scanned the paper sheets, printed them on iron-on paper and ironed them on cloth. Cloth has far superior function and aesthetic.
  2. The beer mugs were supposed to be cut from flexible aquarium tubing. But, the resulting mugs would be seriously out of scale, and the material is difficult to glue. I replaced them with mugs cut from a BIC pen and some wire for the handles. 
  3. The instructions called for food trays to be flat cardboard rectangles covered with foil, with the food placed on top. For practical reasons, that design wouldn't work in real life because the excess oil would just flow onto the countertops. I replaced them with proper food trays with fold-up sides, cut from silver-colored cardstock.
  4. I used heavy textured tan cardstock to make the chopstick cups 
  5. Things were getting crowded on the base, so I increased the size of the base by 3/4" by gluing on basswood strips. This would be covered up by the paving stones, eventually.
The sidewalk is next on my list to do.


Day 29: COMPLETION! 

I'm done! This project took 4 weeks. I could have done this faster if I stuck to the instructions and made it exactly as-is, but it was always my intention to increase the size to 1:18 scale, and to do a deluxe version of the kit.


This pic is taken from the side, and shows the following improvements:
  1. Paving stones made from egg cartons, trimmed, painted, sealed with clearcoat and grouted with spackling paste.
  2. Added a samurai armor gachapon. I found this in a gacha machine at Yodobashi Akiba, on the same night that I bought this dollhouse kit at Volks Hobby Paradise Akihabara. I initially wasn't sure what to do with it, but when I did a dry fit of it next to the kushi katsu shop, something clicked and I liked the look.
  3. Created a bamboo pot for the plant. The instructions were vague about what to do with the plant. Was I supposed to drill a hole in the base and just stick it in? I had leftover bamboo from a bamboo mat used in an earlier project, so I made a pot by wrapping heavy paper around a marker to make a cylinder, and then wrapping a strip of bamboo mat around it.
  4. Made Japanese paper lanterns instead of using styrofoam balls.
Day 29 completion of dollhouse construction


WHEN THE LIGHTS GO DOWN IN THE CITY

It took 25 days for my LED lights to arrive from China. A dozen of them cost only 11 cents (US). The time spent waiting wasn't wasted. I was working on some lanterns, because, dammit, I wanted the lanterns to light up. The original instructions and materials intended for them to be made from styrofoam balls covered with paper, but if I made them that way, I would not be able to insert LED bulbs inside.

So, I ended up making them old-school style: by winding cloth-covered floral wire around a marker and shaping to coils by hand to taper at the ends. Then I covered them in Japanese washi paper. I added a small wire handle at the top, so I could hang them from hooks on the roof.

I wired the LEDs in parallel. They were 3v each, at 20mAh. Since there's 5 of them wired in parallel, they could all run on a single CR-2032 battery, and I had several battery boxes in my stash. It technically works, but a load of 5 LEDS is a bit much for a single coin cell, so I'm expecting the lights to run down the battery pretty quickly.

Kushi Katsu shop illuminated at night with lanterns
Lighted dollhouses look entirely different at night. The photo here is actually a pretty good replica of what it's really like to stop at a kushi katsu shop at night. The Japan I saw (Tokyo) is all skyscrapers, multi-floor mega shopping complexes, bright lights, traffic jams and trains. These kinds of traditional shops still exist in places like Shibamata and Osaka. I love Japan! Maybe on my next trip, I'll venture beyond Tokyo.


FINAL EVALUATION OF BILLY DOLLHOUSE KIT

Now that I've completed my first Japanese Billy dollhouse kit, I can make an objective evaluation of them.

They're rather expensive for what you get. This kit is one of their largest and most expensive ones at 5300 yen. Although the MDF was measured and cut very precisely and finished very well, the Billy dollhouse company seems to have an aversion to making smaller parts out of wood. Many parts, such as countertops and cabinets were supposed to be cut from foam board or cardboard. The roof pieces were supposed to simply be glued at an angle, when they should have wooden triangle-shaped supports. And items that should be cloth are printed paper. I did an awful lot of part substitutions.

The kit did not come with any light bulbs and was never intended to light up. I fixed that (of course) and kicked in about $10 for additional materials (wood, MDF, various types of paper, cloth, Plastruct rails, floral wire, lights).

Manufacturer's photo (left) vs actual dollhouse. A good match
Since I was on vacation in a foreign country and very determined to spend money, that justified the purchase. It's a souvenir of Japan, with some cultural and historical significance, as well as a hobby kit. This was a fun and interesting project, and now it looks like it came from a $48.00 kit. But in its original form... maybe not. I am not certain if I would purchase another Billy dollhouse kit. The materials are rather basic, and I believe I can construct a similar dollhouse from scratch for a fraction of the cost.

Sometimes I really think that toy skeletons have a better life than I do

RELATED PAGES:

Tokyo's Akihabara Again and Gacha-Love, 2017
"Captain Bar" DIY Dollhouse becomes Pirate Bar



Friday, April 28, 2017

Tokyo's Akihabara (again) and Gacha-Love, 2017 Edition!


Free Akihabara map with my favorite shops marked (click to enlarge)
Well, it's 11 months after my first trip to Tokyo in 2016, and I went back! I was in Shanghai, and since I had to put up with a 13 hour flight to get there, it made sense to also go back to Japan for a few days. This time, I padded additional days to the trip for shopping! I had a glorious time!

DAY 1: GACHAPON KAIKAN, HAVI KORO, KAIYODO HOBBY LOBBY

Gachapon Kaikan and one of their display cases
On the first day, I had about 4 hours to shop, so I (of course) went to Akihabara, via the Tokyo Metro. First stop was, of course, Gachapon Kaikan! I had plenty of time to take some photos, and look at all the gacha machines, as well as explore the other floors. Gachapon Kaikan still had Rement Pose Skeletons for sale, and for only 500 Yen ($4.35). They had the Oden stall on display, but it was sold out. When I went back a few days later, they restocked, so I got the Oden stall for only 1300 yen (around $12.00)!

Inside Gachapon Kaikan
I saw gacha machines of the recent Epoch robot series, this time with a rickshaw. I tried twice, and got two different colored Epoch robots, but no rickshaw. Something new that caught my eye were these Bandai figures. All I could read was "SAGA", "500 yen" and "125mm" and a backing card that indicated that these figures were highly poseable. They had me at "125mm", because it's an odd scale, and my favorite size for figures (1:15). About 30 seconds after I got mine, someone else peered at the machine and bought one. More on these later.

2 gacha machines at Gachapon Kaikan
Pose skeleton and Oden stall @ Gachapon Kaikan
Kamen Rider @ Gachapon Kaikan

Epoch robots @ Gachapon Kaikan

Next was a hike to the Radio Kaikan building, to check out Kaiyodo Hobby Lobby, and my favorite open package gacha scalper shop, Havi Koro Toy. I bought the rickshaw there, for 350 yen, only a 50 yen markup. Also picked up 2 folding chairs from the Epoch "Interrogation" series, because one can never have enough folding chairs, and they're no longer available on Rakuten ToySanta.

Rickshaw and folding chairs @ Havi Koro

Kaiyodo Hobby Lobby at Radio Kaikan Bldg
Kaiyodo still had the Dokuroman skeletons in their machines, both the DEVGRU (ver 2) and the Halloween Nightmare. I decided to buy 2 more of the Halloween ones, because they're so good and are a definite improvement over the original DEVGRU (ver 1) ones. On the 2nd floor of the Radio Kaikan bldg, there was a bank of gacha machines, and I noticed that the 125mm SAGA figures were sold out there. Hmmm, interesting. Perhaps they're in high demand?

Gacha machines at Kaiyodo Hobby Lobby
Skeletons in different sizes, Kaiyodo Hobby Lobby
Kaiyodo Pumpkin Nightmare skeletons @ Kaiyodo Hobby Lobby
On the way back to Suehirocho Station, I stopped by several shops and even went into dark alleyways to check out the gacha. I came across these Epoch luggage cases. For only 200 yen and the backing card showed that they open. Oh hell, why not? I scored a white one. Another gacha machine on the street that got my attention was... some sort of "horror hands reaching from the grave" gacha. It was just weird enough to convince me to part with 200 yen for a capsule. I got 4 horror hands (1:6 scale) and a gravestone. With all the toy skeletons that I have already, I could always use a gravestone.

Suitcases and Horror Hands gacha machine

By 21:00, the gacha shops were closed, so it was time to head back to the hotel. I opened up the SAGA figure, and found out that it's from a "Kamen Rider" series. And sure enough, the figure was truly 125mm, and had amazingly good articulation and paint apps for something that cost less than $5.00. I counted 21 POA, and the figure was large and sturdy enough to not have the ball joints pop off. The full name of the series is フルアクションフィギュアSAGA 仮面ライダー, which roughly translates into "Fully poseable action figure SAGA Kamen Rider". I agree that they're pretty damn good. We just don't get figures of this quality at that price in the States. 

At my hotel (Hotel East 21), there's a small shopping mall, and a pharmacy which had a decent number  of gacha machines. They had the Kamen Rider gacha there, and I bought a few more, since it was so convenient.

Gacha machines at Hotel East 21 mall pharmacy
Gacha machines at Hotel East 21 mall pharmacy
Kamen Rider Kuuga @ Hotel East 21 mall pharmacy

I spent the next 2 days at Tokyo Disneyland and Tokyo DisneySea. I'm slightly disappointed that Disney doesn't know how to properly exploit the pirates over there. The 2 pirate shops had generic pirate merchandise- the unbranded types that they could simply order from China. Nothing that was associated with the park, or the ride. 

Bon Voyage at Maihama Station, like the "World of Disney" stores

DAY 4: BON VOYAGE, AKIBA CULTURE ZONE, YODOBASHI AKIBA and VOLKS HOBBY PARADISE

Several days later, I had a complete day (Saturday) to go shopping, so I took the hotel shuttle to Tokyo Disneyland just to shop at "Bon Voyage", the official Disney Parks store at Maihama Station. Then, I headed back to Akihabara. This time, I had the Akiba Culture Zone and Yodobashi Akiba on my list to check out. At the Akiba Culture Zone, there was another branch of Havi Koro Toy. I didn't see anything I desperately wanted, so I headed to Yodobashi Akiba. It's on the other side of the JR Akihabara station, and this time, I had a smartphone to guide me.

Yodobashi Akiba
This is Yodobashi Akiba. It's HUGE. I spent my time mainly on the toys floor. They have multiple large banks of gacha, and aisle after aisle of toys, including the most comprehensive collection of Rement Pose skeleton items that I had ever seen! I picked up the Pose Skeleton sword set and the Oden stall, although I eventually returned the Oden stall because Gachapon Kaikan had a better price. Yodobashi Akiba's gacha included a few from last year (2016) while Gachapon Kaikan seems to stock the latest. By Sat, on my final trip to Gachapon Kaikan, they were sold out of the Kamen Rider 125mm figures.

 Pose Skeleton display at Yodobashi
Gachapon machines at Yodobashi Akiba
I used the opportunity at Yodobashi to pick up a samurai armor gacha, and some of the Epoch exercise barbells.

Samurai armor and barbells gacha machines at Yodobashi Akiba
Samurai armor and barbells @ Yodobashi Akiba
Pose Skeleton sword set @ Yodobashi Akiba
My last stop was Volks Hobby Paradise, in order to pick up one of the Japanese Billy dollhouses. I took a picture of some of the ones they had in the glass case, already built. The Ramen stall was larger than I expected, but I wasn't really planning on spending 3000 yen ($27) for one since I already made an imitation version for 1/10 the cost. 

Volks Hobby Paradise in Akihabara
Pre-built, display only Billy dollhouses at Volks
Billy dollhouses for sale at Volks


I spent a LONG TIME looking at the packages of the larger kits, pondering which one I wanted to buy. I really wanted the Unagi shop, because I really like unagi in sushi and rice bowls, but the only one they had was built-up in the display case. I was determined to go home with a Billy kit, so I eventually decided on the Kushikatsu (deep fried skewers) shop. Volks is a duty-free store, so foreign tourists can avoid paying the Japan 8% consumption tax on total purchases over 5000 yen. The Kushikatsu dollhouse was 5300 yen (about $48). I will be doing a separate write up on this kit later.

Billy dollhouse Kushikatsu shop, purchased at Volks
The Billy dollhouse website is here:
http://www.billy-doll.co.jp/?mode=cate&cbid=1300112&csid=0

You can use Google translate to get this translated into English. However, they do not ship to the United States, so you'd need to order these from Amazon.Com.

DAY 5: NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

My final day in Tokyo was short. I had an early afternoon flight. There's an overwhelming number of transportation options available to get to/from the airport. Just to make it easier on my nerves, I opted to take the "A" Toei Asakusa line from Nihombashi Station, and just stayed on the same train when it became the Narita SkyAccess Express.

Some transportation options out of Narita Airport
Ah, but once I got to Narita airport, got my boarding pass and checked the luggage, there was still more gachapon machines to peruse. This has to be new... gacha machines at the Narita airport. Travelers on the way home, with leftover yen in their pockets, time to kill, and perhaps a need to buy a bunch of little souvenirs for the folks back home are the perfect marks. Kaiyodo seems to have a good presence there. They managed to have a display of Kaiyodo gacha under a plastic dome. The idea is complete genius! It can also serve people coming home from other parts of Asia with a layover at Narita airport for a few hours. I really love that idea.

Kaiyodo gacha display at Narita airport
Gacha at the Narita airport
Gacha at the Narita airport
RELATED PAGES:

The Search for Dokuroman
Miniature DIY Pirate Gachapon Machine
A Collection of Toy Skeletons
More Gacha-Love, shipped from Japan!
Toy Shopping in Tokyo's Akihabara and Hong Kong's Mong Kok district  

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Pirate Hats and accessories (for action figures) DIY Tutorial

It's Halloween time and everybody, including your action figures, wants to be a pirate! Arrr matey! If only pirate stuff were easily and cheaply available for any figure!

My collection of toy skeletons spend a lot of time wishing they were in Disneyland (like I do), so while I was making my Pirate Bar dollhouse, I also needed to come up with some pirate hats. An online discussion mentioned Assassin's Creed figures and accessories, and of course, there's the authorized "Pirates of the Caribbean" action figures based on the movies, but I am a cheapskate at heart, unwilling to buy figures just for the sake of stripping off their accessories, plus I have customizing skills aplenty. I wanted to try making my own pirate hats.

I tried cloth and leather, with disappointing results, so I tried Sculpey polymer clay. It was shockingly quick and easy and I really liked the results, so Sculpey was definitely a winner!
Proof of concept- making pirate hats

PIRATE HAT SCULPEY TUTORIAL

 

Step 1: Buy a package of Sculpey. You can also buy a multi-color pack at Michaels and download their 40% off coupon.  Put a sheet of wax paper on your work area, and cut off a slice or two of Sculpey.
Step 1: Buy Sculpey. Slice.
Step 2: Roll the Sculpey slices into a ball, making sure that all of the bits and pieces mold together. Flatten the ball into a pancake. Use a rolling pin or a nearby can of WD-40 and roll the pancake to 1mm in thickness. 1/16" is acceptable for larger action figure heads.
Step 2: Roll into a ball and flatten it
Step 3: Making a hat form speeds up production considerably. This is a wooden bead that happens to be the right size, mounted on a bamboo stick.
Step 3: Make a hat form
Step 4: Put the flat, round Sculpey on the hat form. Press down slightly, and the hat crown will gradually form.
Step 4: Put Sculpey on form
Step 5: Refine the hat shape with additional pinching. Straighten out and trim the brim.
Step 5: Refine the hat shape
Step 6: Fold up 3 sides of the brim. It's surprisingly easy to make that perfect colonial-era tricorn hat!
Step 6: Fold up the brim
Step 7: Gently remove the hat from the hat form, and put it on a piece of foil. Place in the oven at low heat (about 200 degrees) for about 5 minutes. Babysit it so it doesn't burn.
Step 7: Bake!
Step 8: When it's fresh out of the oven, the hat will be hot! Put it on your action figure, and it will mold itself to the figure's head shape as it cools. Try not to burn your fingers doing this step.  If the hat cracks, just make another one. Once the hat cools, you might want to paint on some matte acrylic clearcoat to provide a barrier, in case you're worried about a chemical reaction between the Sculpey and your action figure.
Step 8: Mold to exact figure's head
Step 9: Make a lot more! It takes about 5 or 10 minutes to make each hat. This method is really inexpensive, and you can custom make each hat for a specific head, without waiting for toy companies to manufacture them.
Disneyland, here we come! Arrrr!

PIRATE CUTLASS TUTORIAL


For a minimal investment, or just digging around in the tools and parts drawer, it's quick and easy to manufacture your own Pirate Cutlasses.

Step 1: Buy a package of plastic sword cocktail picks. You can get them at any party supply store, or even the dollar store. Then locate a cheap or free source of ABS plastic. I used an old Macbook tray. The plastic should be thin enough to trim with heavy duty kitchen shears.
Step 1: Buy sword shaped cocktail picks and find some ABS
Step 2: Use a pair of wire cutters to cut off the plastic sword blade. Then cut your piece of ABS to the shape of a cutlass blade. Use sandpaper to finish the edges. If you need a thicker blade, cut out 2 identical cutlass pieces from the sheet, and glue them together. Carve a peg at the bottom of the cutlass blade.
Step 2: cut off sword blade and shape replacement cutlass blade
Step 3: Use a power drill and drill a small hole in the party pick's sword hilt.
Step 3: Drill hole in hilt
Step 4: Use 5 minute epoxy to glue the new blade into the sword hilt. The peg-in-hole will give you a much stronger joint than simply gluing the 2 pieces together without any reinforcement.
Step 4: Glue new blade into hilt
Step 5: Paint the cutlass with your favorite primer. This step is optional.
Step 5: Paint with primer
Step 6: Paint the cutlass with its final color and allow it to dry. The use a matte clearcoat.
Step 6: Paint with final colors and clearcoat


RELATED PAGES: 


"Captain Bar" DIY Dollhouse becomes Pirate Bar
Miniature DIY Pirate Gachapon Machine
Polymer clay miniature coins for dioramas
Greek Mythology Vitruvian H.A.C.K.S. action figures
The Search for Dokuroman
October Toys Skeleton Warriors
A Collection of Toy Skeletons